Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 14 – Saturday 29 May 2010 – things I’ve learned …

Finn and I were up at six this morning, intending to walk Ingleborough, but the rain was coming down heavily. We had our breakfast and I read a few chapters of my book accompanied by Finn gently snoring beside me, but, two and a half hours later, the rain was still coming down and showed no signs of letting off. So the decision was made to pack up a day early and go home to Norwich.

It’s been an amazing fortnight – I’ve really enjoyed it and I think that our walks to the local park will no longer cut it with Finn. I will have to make a concerted effort to take him further afield at weekends from now on. So, it’s back to the planning stage now for my next holiday – bring it on. In the meantime, thought I’d share some of the things I’ve learned from this holiday – hopefully next time I’ll be a wee bit more organised and actually get some proper walking done!

1. It’s so much harder camping when you have a dog. Finn has worked out how to escape from his cage. The cage is fine when the tent is pitched within view of the showers so he can see me entering and leaving. Otherwise he needs to be locked in the car. (Unless it’s an independent campsite – minus the fascists – and I can take him in the showers with me!)

2. Finn needs a rest too – after walking fairly hard surfaces all week, his paws become very tender. I think the next time I do a walk like this, I will only walk alternate days, thereby taking twice as long to complete as everyone else – a major change in thinking for me. It’s not a race. Blimey!! (This strategy will also help me to get to campsites and set up on the non-walk days, rather than tearing around at a hundred miles an hour after I’ve finished walking, trying to get camp set up.)

3. Days don’t have to be sequential. Blimey again!

4. You have a much better time doing support than walking – I think I’ve found my new role in life!

5. Walking with a dog is far more preferable to walking on my own. I would say Finn, with all his irritating ways, boundless energy and little tricks to escape, has made this holiday. He’s kept me entertained, amused and irritable in equal measure, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. (Although I could do without having to apologise for him constantly – especially the time he stole a sausage off someone’s barbecue and ran off with it.)

6. Things don’t always go according to plan ….. live with it!

So, over to Tristan and Steve for the Coast to Coast update …

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 13 – Friday 28 May 2010 – The Conquest of Whernside!

Finn and I were sad to see Andy leave at lunchtime today, but to stop me moping I decided we should go and stomp over Whernside – not my most favourite hill, it has to be said.

The last time I climbed it was during my failed attempt at the Yorkshire Three Peaks in April. At the time, Rachel pointed out that we only had to climb the peaks, not the bits inbetween. So I decided to use this plan and do them all separately. I then took this a step further by determining to do them all on separate days too – I’m sure this will meet with Rachel’s approval.

So at 1.00 pm we were parked and ready to go. It’s been pretty breezy all day but the views have been amazing. And I could even see the sea from the top too.

There were a few Three Peakers about today – all barking mad – but I have to admit I actually had a smile on my face today when I reached the top – a totally different expression to the one I was wearing the last time I was up there!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 – Sunday 23, Monday 24, Tuesday 25, Wednesday 26 and Thursday 27 May 2010 – more odds and sod

Sunday saw me and Finn driving from Haltwhistle to Bellingham, to Richmond and back to Bellingham, a distance I didn’t dare clock! Steve’s feet were still a mess and there’s no public transport on Sundays. As Finn was still limping, walking was cancelled for us and I offered my car as a taxi from Richmond to Ingleby. While en route, we met up with Tristan at the pub at Danby Wiske to wish him well for the rest of his walk.

Monday found me lazing – reading, doing the laundry, painting my nails and waiting for Andy to arrive. Finn and I were meant to be walking to Bellingham on the Pennine Way and had arranged to meet Andy in the village at 5.00 pm. However, I managed to get a message to him and he came straight to the campsite for about two o’clock, so we lazed about, with a short walk into the village for essentials – wine, chocolate and sausages! – and had a very pleasant evening with a barbecue.

Tuesday found us at Kielder Forest – we walked all morning before lunch and then we fished all afternoon – hoping to catch trout for another barbecue. Finn did not help matters as he loves to swim, so spent most of his time in the lake frightening the fish! Instead we ate at the pub in the village.

Wednesday was really miserable – grey and raining – so we drove to Hexham to Tescos for more provisions – including venison burgers! – and we had another evening barbecue as the weather cleared up a bit. The rest of the day was spent reading and snoozing.

Thursday was time to move on – so we moved camp back down to Malham in Yorkshire. We’re camping in the lovely Town Head campsite at the foot of Malham Cove where I stayed last year. After the tent was up, I told Andy that there was a huge lake not too far away – Malham Tarn – and we could walk to it. My idea of “not too far away” and Andy’s idea appear to be wildly different! Still, we had a lovely walk, although it did get very breezy at the top – a good opportunity to wear my new lime green Berghaus coat – an early birthday present from Andy.

Tea was taken at the Buck Inn – rabbit pie and steak, followed by cheeseboard and port. How very civilised!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 7 – Saturday 22 May 2010 – Greenhead to Once Brewed – 7 miles

The eagle eyed among you will have noticed that this week’s walks do not appear to be sequential – this is a major breakthrough for me – I’m trying to train myself to be less OCD!

The reason for today’s change of plan lay with the boys again – as they had a day off today in Richmond and I quite fancied the idea of finishing early to meet them – their antics have kept me entertained all week!

Finn and I were walking just before eight – I would have liked to get there earlier but the campsite nazis at Haltwhistle wouldn’t let me get off the site until gone seven. I rang the boys early on to say I had started and was told that Tristan was still in bed and Steve was making the tea. This for some reason brought the Morecambe and Wise image flooding back so I set off with a chuckle.

My first sight of Hadrians Wall was really exciting – much more so than I thought it would be. The Pennine Way on this stretch combines with the Hadrians Wall National Trail – and although I didn’t meet any other Pennine Wayers today, I met lots of Hadrians Wallers!

It’s been a really hot day – a real scorcher and Finn seemed to be having a lot of lay downs – due to the heat I assumed. I positively encouraged him to swim in the two lakes that we passed – old quarries which have been turned into picnic sites by the National Park Authority. It was only a while later when we were back on the wall ridge again, that I noticed he was also limping and not putting all his weight on his back left leg. Luckily, we only had a mile to go now to get the bus back to our car at Greenhead.

Now, while I’m quite stubborn and would possibly carry on with an injury, there’s no way I’m putting Finn through that, so a day off for tomorrow was called. (This day off actually turned out to be a bonus as, when I met up with the boys at Richmond, Steve was too injured to walk again and had no way of getting to the next B&B because of the lack of Sunday public transport. I’ve really enjoyed doing support for Tris and Steve this week – I’ve felt quite useful for a change!)

So, Finn and I had a quick ice cream at the National Park Authority visitor centre before catching the AD122 bus back to Greenhead – lovely to see the bus company has a fantastic sense of humour!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure - Day 6 – Friday 21 May 2010 – Garrigill to the Kirkstyle Inn, Knarsdale

Finn and I were walking at nine o’clock today along the South Tyne river towards Alston. It was a very gentle riverside walk for quite a way before heading up into sheep pastures where it stayed all the way to Alston. I spoke to Morecambe and Wise early on as they had started at about the same time I had and we checked each other’s progress all day – I think they were running out of conversation as I kept receiving texts asking obscure geography questions – I did feel a bit like I was being quizzed!

(The Morecambe and Wise comment came about one evening in the pub as Steve and Tristan have twin rooms for their holiday. I did ask if they sat up in bed together in their jimjams discussing the day’s progress – for some reason this image really tickled me!)

From Alston, the path became very different as it climbed up over the fells to enter Northumberland. We then followed the route of the old South Tyne railway line which closed in 1976, but which has now been turned into a trail.

At Slaggyford, the path heads along the road for a while before turning left and heading uphill again. I had meant to stop at Slaggyford to try and get a taxi back to Garrigill and my guidebook showed a post office and ‘phone box which I was intending to use as I had no mobile signal. Sadly though the ‘phone box has long gone and the post office closed twelve years ago!!

A quick glance at the map showed a village three miles further on with a pub – decision made! The landlord of the Kirkstyle Inn furnished me with a lager shandy, Finn with a bowl of water and procured us a taxi ride back to the car at Garrigill, at a fare less than half what I’d been quoted by a rival taxi firm. Bonus!

So a very good day – and the bonus miles means less to do over the next couple of days.

(As I sit here on our new campsite writing the diary, Finn has – cool as a cucumber – wandered down to some campers a bit further down the field and got into their car and laid down. Unbelieveable! Luckily the couple were laughing at his antics, but I’m so mortified, I’m off to hide in the tent now!)

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 3, 4 and 5 – Tuesday 18, Wednesday 19 and Thursday 20 May 2010 – odds and sods and aborted walks

After spending a couple of days chilling out; ferrying injured parties and baggage between B&Bs; a quick stop in Keswick for spare tent pegs; visiting local waterfalls in Ullswater; an unscheduled amble on the Coast to Coast to check on the boys’ progress; and finally moving campsite back to Newby near Appleby, Finn and I were psyched up and ready to continue the Pennine Way – a sixteen mile climb over Cross Fell, the highest point in the Pennines. Sadly, the weather had other plans …

We left Dufton at seven thirty this morning to climb seven hundred metres to the top of Cross Fell before heading downhill to the village of Garrigill, our scheduled end point. The mist had been really low from the start but I was ever hopeful of it clearing away to give us some amazing views from the fell tops.

However, after two hours of walking, the mist was thicker than ever, to the point we lost the path. My guidebook said the path is pretty indistinct anyway and we needed to follow the cairns as our path indicators. Unfortunately, the mist was so thick and low that there were no cairns to be seen. I thought we should sit and wait it out for a while to see if it cleared but twenty minutes later decided to call it a day and abort the walk. I was getting cold and, to be fair, we could have sat another hour and it still might not have cleared. We then had a very grumpy trek back down to Dufton – we’d walked eight miles, just to get back to the beginning.

Unfortunately, my schedule doesn’t allow for me to do this day during this holiday so I need to plan to come back up again for this section – oh, what a hardship!

Back at the campsite, I had a home made (with a little help from the Co-op!) cream tea and gave Finn a bath, before heading back to meet Dastardly and Muttley at Kirkby Stephen. So then followed the fourth hysterical evening in a row with the boys, mainly at their expense of course! Their walking style at the end of the day was a cross between a Julian Clary mince and a John Wayne swagger. Now, although I’ve been unofficial support duty over the week, I feel my involvement tonight went above and beyond the call of duty … while Tristan was showering and Steve was having tea and cake with the other B&B residents, guess who was in the laundrette washing their smalls?!!!! (One, who shall remain nameless, actually stuck all his teeshirts in the wash, so had to go out for dinner in his pyjama top – priceless!) Although I DID get another dinner out of it – and am planning on getting loads more mileage out of this favour too!!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 2 – Monday 17 May 2010 – The Ascent of Helvellyn!

The tent was down and packed away by seven forty-five this morning and set up again forty miles away by ten o’clock! Which left Finn and I the whole day to get up Helvellyn.

It’s been very hot and the views have been breathtaking, both of which caused me to sit down a lot during the day. Finn used these opportunities to run off and chase sheep and disappeared from sight a number of times. Bloody dog. The climb up was stepped and went on forever at a forty-five degree angle – punishing on the legs – but, towards the top, the steps gave way to scree. I only saw a handful of people all day – I guess that’s the beauty of doing such a popular walk on a weekday.

The boys ‘phoned while I was on top of Helvellyn – they were on top of Red Pike, so we all waved in different directions towards different peaks which made me chuckle at the silliness of the moment.

There was snow at the top of Helvellyn and Finn launched himself over the edge of a precipice to roll in it – at that point, once I’d dragged him back, I put him back on the lead – I was anxious enough as it was without the possibility of Mountain Rescue being involved!

I chatted to a few people about Striding Edge – it looked way too scary for me – but I’d been encouraged by the amount of dogs appearing over the top of the ridge. I don’t think I’d like to attempt it with Finn on his lead – he’d be quite likely to pull me over. (Later in the pub, I spoke to a couple who said their dog had fallen and they thought it had broken its leg. Another couple got as far as Striding Edge, but then turned back and fled the other way!)

So, we couldn’t put it off any longer – and started back downhill on the knee crunching steps – my legs kept going wobbly and I was glad to get to the bottom. Especially when I discovered an ice cream van in the layby where we’d parked. Result!

After a shower back at the campsite, we set off to Rossthwaite to meet Steve and Tristan. They were on day two of the Coast to Coast and we’d arranged to meet at the pub there so they could buy me dinner! (Actually I think that was MY arrangement!) On arrival, the boys were not to be seen, so I sat outside quietly until Finn got into a fight with a very exciteable Labrador, at which point Finn was exiled to the car. As I came back from the car, I found Tristan in a stew – he’d lost Steve. Day Two!! I thought this was pretty careless, but thought better about saying so. So Tris, Finn and I had a lovely drive through Borrowdale to find the wanderer, who we found quite cheerfully coming down the road towards Seatoller. So then, back to the pub for dinner and explanations which I will let Tristan make in his blog.

Finn and Susan’s big adventure - Day 1 – Sunday 16 May 2010 – Langdon Beck to Dufton - 13 miles

Finn and I had an early night yesterday after our drive up from Norwich. Quite apart from anything else, it was freezing and I just wanted to be in my sleeping bag. Unfortunately, so did Finn!

I woke a couple of times in the night to hear rain pattering on our tent roof so wasn’t at all surprised to find drizzle when we finally surfaced and drove to Langdon Beck, the start of the second half of the Pennine Way.

After a couple of miles the sun finally broke through and luckily our climb up Cauldron Snout waterfall was relatively pain and stress free. There were a couple of moments when Finn couldn’t climb up some particularly steep boulders, so we perfected a manoeuvre whereby he launched himself and I grabbed his collar and pulled him up. It wasn’t pretty! And also that was the only time I kept ahead of him all day!

My guidebook advised against doing today’s walk in the rain if at all possible as there was a lot of rock hopping which gets pretty slippery. My book also helpfully told me to avoid twisted ankles and broken hips on this section. Gee thanks!

Once we crossed the Maize Beck and stopped to chat to a group of four walkers who were carrying all their camping gear, the rain started to come down again and I’d even got my gloves on at this time as it was so cold and very misty. However, as soon as I could see the beginnings of High Cup Nick, the sun came out again – what a view! Absolutely stunning – I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything like it. It was here that my ‘phone started beeping to indicate the first signal in twenty-four hours so I rang Mum and Dad to tell them how amazing it was. They were even more amazed as they were convinced I’d gone to Cornwall!

I ‘phoned a local taxi firm to arrange a lift from Dufton back to Langdon Beck and I made the Stag Inn in Dufton with an hour to spare. All my fears about Finn playing up in pubs were unfounded – he was so tired that he just laid down and didn’t even lift his head when people came to make a fuss of him.

I chatted to a group of half a dozen cyclists who’d been cycling the Pennine Cycle Way this weekend, and also to another Pennine Wayer who still had twenty miles to go. He was also carrying all his gear and was disappointed that the village shop was shut as he had no tea. I donated two bread rolls and a tin of tuna to him – my good deed for the day. He offered to buy me a pint, but, sadly, as if on cue, my taxi had turned up.

So a really brilliant day – lots to see and not too much climbing – which is just how we like it!

Tristan/Steve's Coast to Coast May 2010

After the planning and booking up in January, the time had come for Steve and Tristan to attempt Wainwrights Coast to Coast walk. The principle was simple, train to St.Bee's, carry our stuff in a backpack and walk from the west to east coast in 11 days staying in B&B's, then train back, sounds pretty straight forward doesn't it? Most people aim to do it in 14 days, we chose the faster 11 day itinerary as the former have several small stages and the thought of spending time in the pub from mid afternoon on multiple days seemed too much of a challenge!!!

So on Saturday 15th May we sped northwards on the train via Peterborough, Newcastle and Carlisle. Time passed quickly and a glimpse of Hadrians Wall was a first for us both. I had pondered as the train transversed from one coast to the other, is if we walked up and down the carriage at the same time, could we say we had already walked it? But that would be cheating! The railway hugs the coastline in the final section so saw spectacular views of the coast and Irish Sea, so whetted our appetite. As did the Beer as we caught the second half of the FA cup final at St.Bee's followed by a cliff top walk and the first of many hearty meals.

Walking Day 1 - St.Bee's to Ennerdale Bridge 14 Miles (9am - 4pm) An early breakfast with 14 other C2Cer's in our Guest House saw good banter with expectations running high. Being possibly the most popular UK long distance walk you see a lot of familiar faces day in day out including people from the States, Canada and Australia. As tradition dictates, the pebbles were picked up from the beach and were soon tracking the cliffs northwards. The out line of the Isle of Man could be made out in the haze with sweeping views across the Solway Firth to Scotland. The busy bird colonies on the cliff ledges saw me doing my Bill Oddie bit giving Steve a crash course in identification so could impress his nephew Charlie on his return. After some 3-4 miles we finally turned eastwards down leafy lanes heading towards Dent Hill and the edge of the Lake District. Walking was good, weather bright and sunny, the back pack taking some getting used to (for me), especially getting through kissing gates, but all was rosy! The ascent of Dent Hill got the lungs working but at 352 metre's this would prove to be a mole hill! All C2C walkers are equipped with an assortment of books and maps but comically certain directions at certain points were ambiguous and would see a group of people scratching heads before making their decisions which invariable were not always the same! Soon enough we were in Ennerald Bridge and our next B&B, the Cloggers. Blisters, Tristan 1 Steve 0, A village pub crawl ensued, well there was two!

Walking Day 2 - Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale 16 - 18 Miles!!! (9am - 8pm) Waking to a mixture of sunshine and cloud, we were going to make major inroads into the Lake District today. Early on, the route skirted Ennerdale Water with picture postcard views. The path was narrow and steep in places with no beach as such and taught us to find our centre of gravity with the back packs. By the time we reached the meadows the other end, the clouds around the peaks have lifted so decision time, traditional C2C route or the alternative high route along the Red Pike ridge. Steve could feel pressure points on the feet so left the decision which route to take with him. Yes you guessed it, high route we went! The ascent from 150m to 755m was steep and tough with back packs and took 1.5 Hours but the reward was high. Spectacular views all around. Although speaking to Susan (mobile) found her on Helvellyn waving at us which made us laugh. Trouble was we didn't have a clue which peak it was so a 360 wave back had to do! Susan also had great joy telling us she was at a higher altitude than us, how is it women always have the last say? We now tracked the ridge to High Style (807m) and High Crag (744m) but with lots of shattered rock making uneven paths, great care was needed and sapped the energy levels. Going down the last was hell on a very steep scree covered path, it was already 4pm, the book never suggested it would be this hard. So came the revelation from Steve, he just didn't have the leg strength to get up the next, Haystacks and feared his feet where in a bad way. A quick conflab with three passing walkers identified a major path to Gillerthwaite on the shores of Buttermere. So Steve decided to make his way to here then to give Susan a shout on her mobile (as she was meeting us that evening whilst heading North on her Pennine trek) to get a lift as she was bound to have a signal in Patterdale. We didn't have a signal at that time as in a dip. I was hesitant about what to do as the rule is normally not to split, but the weather was cloudless, the path/route for Steve straight forward, who was keen for me to keep to the route, being only day 2. So deciding the risk of anything bad happening was negligible, we split singing "We'll meet gain", that's boys for you! So being a Goat (Capricorn), I scaled Haystacks quite quickly although it was a clamber over boulders (harder than Yorkshire 3 peaks) and could see Steve making his way towards the lake. No mobile signal was worrying but found my way to the Honition Slate mines with little trouble then down to Borrowdale and our next B&B some 2.5 hours later. Went wrong at the end as came across a stream but had no intention doubling back and skipped across the stones with just wet boots at the end.

Got to the B&B to find Steve wasn't there? That's not good. Using the B&B landline rang both Steve's and Susan's mobiles which went straight to voice mail. It must of sounded strange, "Susan, I've lost Steve" especially as it was only the second walking day! What now, only one thing, go to the pub...... no, not to do what you are thinking but to ring a Taxi. Its going to cost a bit she said on the phone, I'm don't care I replied, be one with you in 15 minutes was the answer. I had concluded he was either sat at Gillerthwaite knowing I would get to him eventually, walking his way back or had been abducted by Aliens. As I started to walk out Susan walked in (who had seem me walk in from the car park whilst sorting out Finn), however a moment of hope turned to disappointment when my question do you have Steve gave a bemused look. So after canceling the Taxi, we jumped into Susan's car and within some 5-10 minutes of driving, there was Steve with that northern grin and that "what's all the fuss about" air about him. Yes he had sat down, patched his feet with compeed and walked the road route some 2-3 extra miles to mine. What a start to the walk, it was only day two! As to the blister count, I declared Steve the overall winner for the trip already, there was no chance I could ever emulate those feet?

Walking Day 3 - Borrowdale to Patterdale 20+ Miles (8.30am - 7pm) We had stayed at the National Trust Nook Farm in Rosthwaite (Borrowdale), a place in a time warp with ancient carpets and brass bedsteads and awoke to more amazing weather. The whole area is protected to maintain the effect with stone walls, sheep in the fields and buildings in traditional stone. Something else which needed protecting was Steve feet with the realisation he wouldn't be able to walk today a bitter blow particularly as so soon into the walk. But Steve had walked the next stage in his Airforce days and hopefully a day of rest would see him able to resume the following day. So with some apprehension and sadness I waved to Steve stood by the window and headed off up the valley leaving him to form a strategy and work out logistics. Today was always going to be a big day, most split this part into two although Wainwright has it as one plus you have the choice to do Helvellyn and Striding Edge. Of all the days, this is the one I wanted with good weather. So with a purpose in my stride, up to Lining Crag and Greenup Ridge I went. Every few minutes a photo stop was demanded while another scramble to the ridge got the heart pumping hard. The way across the bog was haphazard and twice the leading leg disappeared to the knee in the mud but soon was making my way to the valley to the quintessential English town of Grasmere. By late morning I was having a pot of Tea and Tea Cakes feeling pleased with myself. So thinking it was 10.45 I rang Steve and Susan to see what they were up to. I remarked on how I couldn't work out how I managed to this initial 9 miles so quick as they had mentioned initially they might meet me at Grasmere at 2pm, but I advised I would be well gone by then as would be back on the trail by 12.30. What I didn't know that my watch had stopped and it was actually 12.30 when I spoke to them. But neither twigged and told me I was being a daft beggar and only realised while visiting the grave of Wordsworth later. When I caught sight of the church clock, it was now 1.30pm, doh! Feeling rather flustered I headed out of Grasmere with this section according to the book being one of the easiest. As I went up numerous steep which were like Malham but five times as long, abusive words directed at the author entered my head, easy, my ****! A Peregrine Falcon being chased by a Raven was a slight distraction, but the muttering soon started again!

Finally around 3.15pm I reached the Tarn and decision time, do I carry on to Patterdale down the Valley or veer off to Helvellyn and the fabled Striding Edge. The last stage with the back pack had been hard especially after the tough walk the day before but while scoffing my sandwiches I kept remembering people saying that weather like this was a rarity not the norm. I had to do it although it would be a late finish. The climb from 534 metres to 858 metres was steep and slow but once at altitude a sudden roar and a grab for the camera caught this picture. Will let you guess but will say that Susan's guess of a Killer Whale isn't right, especially as it was taken at 2800 feet above sea level! The views were to die for as I went higher and higher and by 4.30pm I was there, on the third highest summit of England, Helvellyn.

I loitered for a while to soak up the views but now it was show time, Striding Edge, was initially confused as there are two ridges which look similar, but then realised it was the one the other walkers were avoiding! My first reaction was how the hell do I get onto to it, the answer was simple, you scramble down, again not easy with a back pack so easy does it. Very tentatively made it to the gap to the ridge where you look down to scree below. Hmm, can see why this is isn't for the faint hearted! My first problem was working out how to traverse it as I couldn't see anyone on it. Clambered to the Apex but this couldn't be right, this would take ages and would be far too dangerous? Then spied a path, so back down off the apex, deep breath, across the gap with the scree dropping below and was there. Probably make it sound more dramatic then it is, but for me, it had the adrenalin pumping, thats for sure. Taking it nice and easy got to the other end of the ridge, now a hours slog descending down to Patterdale. A school boy error saw me forgetting to fill up with water at Grasmere so thought a packet of Gummy Bears (jelly sweets) would get rid of a dry mouth. As I reached Patterdale I lost the path but could see the road I needed to reach so cut across fields downwards feeling despondent. Suddenly I could see a figure sat by the road in red. It couldn't be, it was, it was Steve, my spirits lifted. I did a happy dance on the bridge (Steve was obviously worried the bridge would collapse, see photo) and we were soon reunited. Steve first reaction was my lips were all chapped and looked a right mess (again can just make it out on the photo). Around 10 minutes later we were at the B&B, and a look in the mirror saw the lips were encircled by a band of brown which on investigation was caused by the Gummy Bears residue, so that was a relief, as it wiped of instantly but it had looked daft! What a day, hard but rewarding, there was steam coming off my feet as I removed the boots. The shower was heaven but spotting electronic scales, curiosity got the better of me, but they came up as ERR, what are they trying to say, I'm too fat, maybe Steve's concern over the bridge weight restriction was correct! Didn't care, off to pub where we met up with Susan (now in Heidi mode) for the final time for dinner, as she was due to head north the next day.



Walking Day 4 - Patterdale to Shap 16 Miles (8.40 to 17.35) The guide book was full of cheer today, this is the stage which would cause us to curse Wainwright and to burn our boots afterwards! At Home Farm we soon polished off yet another Full English breakfast and put Steve's strategy into place, have his Backpack couriered by Sherpa to the next B&B so only had to walk with a day pack. Yes Steve was back in business. The Blue skies had been lost to peaks shrouded in clouds but at least it was still dry. The walk out of Patterdale was steep and as we gained height and entered the clouds, visibility was down to some 50 metres if lucky. Most walkers head off between 8-9am so its like a line of Ants leaving these stage posts. So navigation was by consensus as there was no way you could see any landmarks! For any doing the C2C and not doing the "add ons" Kidsty Pike at 780 metres is the highest you get. With no views to see, the descent saw us drop below the cloud level by midday and by 1pm were having our sandwiches by Haweswater. In some ways it was nice to see the hills in different weather conditions and to see how miserable the first 3 days could of been weather wise! The 2 hour trek along Haweswater (which serves as a reservoir for Manchester) is suppose to be the killer but found the scenery and the reflections in the near still water much to my liking. Although Steve did remark I did stumble a number of times but that was more down to the fatigue from the previous day. Suddenly the hills stopped and were greeted with green rolling countryside. We had left the Lake District, one National park down, two to go, result!The next couple of hours was easy going, spirits were high and conversation still flowing. It has to be said that Steve and I can be both absent minded at times which is great, as it means we can have a conversation several times and still think we are having it for the first time! As we came down towards the bank to Shap Abbey, I could see someone through the tree's which just looked like Susan but no dog so couldn't be, then Finn came into view, now that was a surprise! It transpired that Susan hadn't realised how close her next campsite was to our overnight stay until she pitched up. All I can say, good job the Pennine way is well sign posted and doesn't have to relie on geographical awareness! So yet again we decanted to the pub (Kings Arms) which happened to be our B&B with Susan joining us for dinner. I was happy as I ended up polishing off half of Susan's dinner as well as my own (sorry Finn)!

Walking Day 5 - Shap to Kirkby Stephens 21 Miles (8.20 to 16.30) If there was ever a comedy day, this was it and started at Breakfast. Sharing a room, we had gone through our normal "Morcambe and Wise" routine and sat down for breakfast. Half asleep, Tristan as normal headed for the cereal bowl and his weetabix only to sit down and cut it with a knife and fork! No, I need these for the fried breakfast, I use a spoon for this I blurted out. The damage was done, this had alerted Steve, it now had to be blogged! It was a long stage today, Tristan still had sore feet from his Lake District antics while Steve was still battling hard to keep the blisters from spreading with the use of Compeed. Crossing the M6, one of the main North-South Motorways gave the sense we were really making progress and a little diversion requested by Tristan to a Prehistoric Stone Circle saw Steve at the centre praying to the Compeed gods for good feet. I has already decided to buy shares in Compeed as when ever Steve walks the sale volumes go through the roof! Although I have to say. I do think part of the problem was the size of boulder Steve had chosen to transport from St.Bee's to Robin Hoods Bay (see picture)? A farm 8 miles into the walk serving beverages and tea cake was most welcomed and really got us into a positive mood and through the green rolling countryside amongst newly born calves we strutted. Eventually we got to Sunbiggin Tarn and then a period of road walking which is always hard on sore feet, but we were soon heading over Tarn Moor, the feet felt hot but progress was good. Looking across the valley it seemed we had broken the back of the walk. That's until Tristan rather preoccupied looking for Prehistoric rabbit hutches missed a stile! Half an hour later the realisation dawned something wasn't quite right. Despite having map extracts still unsure where we were so swallowing some pride asked a dog walker who had just appeared, excuse me, what's the name of the village down there? Lets just say we got to Kirkby Stephens at our expected time but just took an alternative look to have a look at a Victorian Train Viaduct and come into the town on the C2C cycle path!

It was 5pm, the feet were throbbing but we needed to sort out some washing before it closed, time to call our unofficial support crew (just like to say I didn't make the call). So over the horizon Susan and Finn galloped (well chugged I guess in the car) and before long had the rather surreal situation that I was having a shower, Steve was having afternoon tea in the drawing room of our rather elegant 3 story town house and Susan was in the Laundrette watching over our smalls! Now thats one thing she never imagined she would ever be doing? Apparently the transfer of these to the dryer was one of the most traumatic things she has ever had to do and was way beyond the call of duty. I'm sure we will be reminded for eternity! So yet again we retired to another "King Arms" with just one more observation. Someone washed all his day tops so went out in his pajama top. Wonder who that was, could be tricky to work out, lets see, I don't wear a T-shirt to bed...


Walking Day 6 - Kirkby Stephens to Gunnerside 19 Miles (8.45 to 18.00) It was while having breakfast in our elegant surroundings with some very seasoned walkers, that it became very apparent how easy it is to walk with very little gear, especially when we compared my backpack to theirs, live and learn as they say. So with sunny skies, and Steve's feed patched up, we walked into the yonder. It was a steep climb out of the market town as it was time to cross the Pennines in our relentless trek east and after today, we would of reached half distance. The nine standards soon came into view on top of a hill but we decided to take the low route to help Steve's feet, which again needed another repatching exercise. So around Hartley Moor we walked and into Yorkshire, the prodigal son returns! Soon we were passing Ravenseat walking along a ravine and Whitsundale Beck. Wainwath Falls was a lovely distraction as we headed into Keld. Most C2C trekkers were spending the night here (Keld), but we couldn't find any spare rooms back in January so another 6 miles for us. But at Keld we spotted a shop/cafe, yes, an Ice Cream stop! Then the heavens opened, the one and only time on the trip. After an hour and a cup of tea with no let up, there was nothing for it, waterproofs on. So yes, Yorkshire was treated to a vision in yellow! So whilst the rain fell (the first they have had for weeks), we made our way towards Muker where much of the James Herriot series were filmed. After a week, as you can imagine, the conversations were pretty random. With the burning issue of the moment being why doesn't the rain flood Rabbit Warrens and if it does, do they have underground reservoirs to catch it? Answer anyone? It has to be said, morale does drop when you are still walking at 6pm but after what seemed an eternity Gunnerside came into view and our B&B. I have never been so pleased to get the boots off. Luckily the Pub, yet another Kings Arms was only a few doors downs, just as well as the sensation your feet go through as they spread back out (after being in boots all days) is indescribable. Steve did a Benny Hill type run on the way back to reduce the contact on the ground while I had suggested we should learn to moonwalk for the same reasons. But as Steve's commented, we couldn't really walk the rest of the way to Robin Hoods Bays backwards?

Walking Day 7 - Gunnerside to Richmond 14.5 Miles (10.54 to 11.39) The last couple of hours the previous day's walk had seen some soul searching and the decision reached that today would be a rest day for us both. Steve was tempted to chop off his feet whilst Tristan, although not badly blistered seemed to have something going on with the sole of his left foot making it uncomfortable. Plus was mindful of 2x 23mile days coming up with temperatures of 27c forecasted. The end of the day it was a holiday not a challenge although a 11 day itinerary clearly was! At last I managed a good night sleep, don't know why, but had previously been waking up at 4.30am. Must of been the excitement of another foot destroying walk!!! As the Little Red Bus didn't leave until late morning (which incidentally wasn't red), a leisurely get up was the order of the day. Whilst eating our breakfast we could hear a bizarre conversation about a Mausey in the back garden? Even my interpreter (Steve) couldn't translate but it sounded comical. It turned out they were talking about a mole! So by midday we were in Richmond having drinks in the pub beer garden (where we were staying). The previous day when it rained, I thought my pack was waterproof but still some of the stuff got damp. Turns out there was a rain cover integrated into the top which needed deploying, second "doah" of the campaign, novice or what! So a day of trying to dry my things, resting the feet, reading news papers and restocking of Compeed prevailed. Plus Susan joined us again for the evening with hop along Finn.

Walking Day 8 - Richmond to Ingleby Arncliffe 23 Miles (8.15 to 16.35) The weather forecast was correct for once with blue skies and searing heat. Steve's feet were still not up to walking, with the priority being for Steve to walk the last stage into Robin Hood's Bay as a minimum. So I left my backpack to be transported with his and used his daysack. So over the Swale with Richmond Castle as a backdrop I walked out of the town. Walking was painful for the first 10 minutes but they soon warmed up and squiggled back into their "boot" shape and were back in business. Today would see the transit between the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the North Yorkshire Moors with not so much to marvel at today with flat fields and the walking from farm to farm. I only saw 3 walkers all day but the mind is always ticking over about all sorts. A conversation with Susan highlighted in such situation how she bursts into Hymn singing when walking alone. So started with "Onwards Christian Soldiers" but then realised I only knew 2 lines! Reverted to an old favorite, Bohemian Rhapsody but decided doing the air guitar bit in the middle would be difficult while carrying maps and books! So reverted to the usual "What makes people do this" debate entering my thoughts. Amanda/Marti, you don't have to tell me the answer, I've worked it out! So under the A1 at Catterick I went followed by solid progress while a phone call from Steve wanting an update of my position made it so obvious he was nearby, and sure enough he popped up with Susan just around the next corner. Even better, they later had an Orangeade waiting for me at the pub at Danby Wiske. I even broke out into a little run when I caught sight of it. Soon enough all that stood between me and the next B&B was the very busy A19, although by then, I couldn't manage a dash so had to be patient. Do you remember that old Computer game "Chicken"? It was like that! But a Magner's at the Bluebell Pub at Ingleby Cross with Steve then our landlady proving a Cream Tea on our arrival at our B&B was much appreciated. A walk to the pub for dinner later saw me do my Julian Clary impression and noticed a local smiling, guess they are used to it?

Walking Day 9 - Ingleby Arncliffe to Blakey (Church Houses) 23 Miles (8.55 to 17.06) Steve's feet were recovering but with another punishing 23 miler, thought better of it and not to risk, so hitched a lift with the Sherpa Van driver. This now makes Steve an expert regards where all the B&B are around Northallerton! A chat with other C2Cer's had alerted me to a series of 6 ups and downs so with some trepidation off I went. So up through the woods, along the Cleveland Way and onto the Moors with the most magnificent of views, as I walked the ridge looking down towards Middlesborough. On a crystal clear day it is said you can see the North Sea and Ingleborough, but today there was a haze. Enthralled by the views, a steady walk was not a problem and by early afternoon got to Clay Bank where most C2C'ers spend the night. Incidentally, two ladies who were at our previous B&B had left that morning before me, but had been surprised I hadn't caught up with them. When we saw them again on the last day, it transpires they got lost, walked 30 miles and didn't get there until 9pm that night. We weren't the only ones to have fun! So up across Urra Moor I went and flushed 2 groups of Red Grouse with their babies which were cute. Tracking across Blakey Ridge, Steve had briefed me on a side path I needed to take down into the Dale, as the traditional C2C stop was fully booked, but could I find it? So identifying where I needed to be, I made my way down steep slopes using my right to roam!!! Half expected a farmer to pop up with a shot gun and "Get off my Land". But after scaling several gates came out on the road and reached the B&B/Pub (seeing a pattern yet?) at 17:06, six minutes past my ETA so felt pretty pleased with myself. Forty six miles in two days, well pleased with that. However the bar was closed so a shower and chill out for an hour. Then had what was now my normal, a post walk Magners and Ice and you guessed it, yes after just two sips, "Steve, sorry mate but I really need to lay down". Will spare the details, but didn't embarrass myself this time and was OK after a couple of hours, but yes, I had done a "Tristan"! Never mind, by all accounts Steve had a good night tucking into his steak and listening to some real broad Yorkshire, being the Pub where the local farmers gathered.

Walking Day 10 - Blakey (Church houses) to Grosmont 13.5 Miles (9am to 14.50) Just two walking days left, we were getting really close and the best news of all, Steve was back on the trek. His new strategy with his feet (not the one where you chop them off) seemed to be working. I liked walking the last two days without a full backpack so we sufficed with one daysack between us which was ample. These walks were relatively short and passed through villages, not the long treks across the moors with no one in sight! We also persuaded the Landlady to give us a car ride back up to the ridge, which would save a lot of energy. Steve got in the back where the dogs go which of course led to the question, if Steve was a dog, what would his name be. Monty was her reply although she didn't agree with Steve's suggestion that he would be a Springer Spaniel! Because of our suicidal itinerary, it meant we would often leap frog people so catch up with new faces. Today saw us say hello several times to a group of ladies from California and another group what was to be known as the Wigan 11. Socially, this really is a great walk. So over High Blakey Moor we went, past Fat Betty and then walk along the length of, wait for it, Great Fryup Dale, I kid you not! At one point we got very close to Curlews (birds), they obviously had nests nearby. So down through Glaisdale and a Latte and Soup at the Arncliffe Arms (yes really back into civilisation now) for lunch. followed by a Photo stop at the Beggars Bridge, it wasn't long until we got into Grosmont, the home of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. What can I say, boys being boys, we were soon breathing in the soot of passing steam trains and exploring the sheds, we were in the element and decided our Seaside day at the end would have to be a Steam Train day instead. Even better, our B&B was also a Tea Room, so after a Cream Tea (it was such a hard day), and a freshen up. Its was nice not to eat at a Kings Arms for a change. Yes you guessed it, it just had to be the Station Tavern, along with the Wigan 11 and the swapping of war stories. This was more like a holiday!

Walking Day 11 - Grosmont to Robin Hoods Bay 15.5 Miles (9am to 15:45) So the big day came, I have to say, I've never known a holiday to pass so quickly, then again I guess they were actioned packed and memorable for lots of reasons! Steve was still in fine form so off up the hill at Grosmont we went across Sleights Moor with views down to Whitby Abbey donning our "Tears for Beers" splinter group Polo Shirts! A descent to the delightful village of Littlebeck took us along May Beck and Falling Foss, what had been described as a spectacular waterfall, but the lack of rain robbed it of this accolade today. What was spectacular was sitting in the garden of nearby Midge Hall having the best Cream Tea of the campaign so far! There was no rush although Steve had predicted we would be at the Wainwright Bar at 15:45? Fed and watered, we somehow got across Sneaton Low Moor with a little head scratching and a request from me to Steve to slow down. He was like a Bunny on speed, I just couldn't keep up! I'm sure Wainwright planned this last part in a particular way on purpose as you see Whitby and the Sea most of the day, but when you hit the cliffs you still have some 3 miles to reach Robin Hoods Bay, it seemed an eternity. Rain had been forecasted, but yet again the sun shined for most of the day. But suddenly there is was, the walk down the hill. Things had gone a bit quiet as we both reflected on the last two weeks. I'm not known to get emotional but have to admit walking down the hill, all those miles, long days, aching feet, the highs and lows, I couldn't believe we were finally here. Steve also mentioned that he had spent the last hour reflecting, it had been some trip. So to the causeway by the the Bay Hotel we stopped, we could go no further, the tide was in. So in went Steve's pebble into the North Sea (sorry Marti!). I had picked up two originally but managed to lose one, so dipped my remaining one into the sea and brought it home as a keep sake (as well as a bit of Striding Edge, Honition Slate and Kidsty Quartz, thats why my pack weighed a tonne!). With pictures taken, we retired to the bar and ordered drinks and checked my watch. Don't know how Steve does it but it was 15:45. After filling in the C2C book (40+ finished that day) and swapping walking tales, a taxi back to our Lodgings in Whitby and World Famous Fish and Chips seemed to be a fitting end of the day.

So there you have it, the following day was spent on a Steam Train on a return trip from Whitby and Pickering. Never have I seen Steve with such a big smile while traveling on the steam train plus we also did a train change at the Harry Potter/Aidenfield (Heartbeat) station! A pub quiz in the evening saw us come 2nd out of 7 which left us amazed, while a Chinese meal made a change from pub grub.

So would I do one again, even though one of my toe nails fell off when I got home? Well I went a novice and came back enlightened to the do's and dont's so if I were to say, does anyone fancy taking a week off and doing Hadrians Wall, I would sign up in an instance, I even have a book! But I do know we were so lucky with the weather. Although the rest of the gang all seem to be volunteering for support crew duties nowadays. Steve did say he would contemplate a walk as long as it was no longer than 15 miles and not before 2013! He also said at the end "we had a blast" and I agree totally. One to reflect on for years to come I suspect.