Sunday, 17 October 2010


Since the tradition seems to be if you do anything slightly strenuous, Blog it, time to document my third marathon in 12 months! Yes madness I hear you cry and could have easier obsessions, but hey, what would be the fun in that?

Barcelona in March saw a very pleasing 3 Hours 23 minutes, my next target was sub 3 Hours 15 so giving me a shot of a best of age entry for London. So searching the marathon listings for the autumn and looking at the associated logistics (distance of finish from accommodation!), Amsterdam seemed a good candidate. But a chance look at the Toronto Waterfront Marathon saw a special offer with flights and accommodation which was really too good to pass by. After a couple of days pondering, what the hell was the conclusion so booked it. It certainly caused many a raised eye brow when asked the destination of my next marathon!

Training wasn't good, actually it was disastrous. Had come back from Barcelona in March with a groin strain and despite not stopping me walking the Yorkshire 3 peaks or the Coast to Coast, as soon as I tried to run, it would play up. It took 6 months to cure with a deep sports massage and cycling as exercise opposed to running. Was my body trying to tell me something? Training got underway but after 5 weeks picked up another injury without doubt trying to extend the distance far to quickly. A competition half marathon saw a good time but boarded the plane with just 8 weeks disruptive training (opposed to the normal 16 weeks) and having only done over 10 miles on three occasions with a max of 14 miles (marathon is 26.1miles). The omens weren't good, 3:15, no chance but I wanted to get round so at least get a North American finishers medal.

As with all my runs, have a number of days beforehand to explore and be a tourist. Niagara Falls was breath taking and the Maid of the Mist a world class experience. So with this and ascending the CN tower in Toronto, two life ambitions were completed. Toronto is a city of skyscrapers with tickets to an Ice Hockey game being a real highlight. Despite being a pre-season friendly, two players were sent off after 10 minutes for fighting! Visits to Fort York (British) was the only real history as such although the Dinosaur collection at the ROM and a look around the Victorian mansion Casa Loma were all worthwhile. While watching the Blue Jays Baseball team had to be done although have to say was pretty boring. Daren't ask why they get so excited by a game of glorified rounders!

So the pasta dinner for the race arrived. A table with fellow mad marathon runners was a good time to share experiences. One was doing his 10th one this year, but only as to keep in trim for Iron man contests, you think I'm mad. While a British girl was doing the half marathon and was only her second, her first one had been a month before in a Vine Yard, which sounded intriguing! But the real highlight was a after dinner talk by an authority on the Marathon story as this was the 2500th anniversary of the original run when Pheidippides ran 42 kilometres from the battlefield at Marathon to Athens, to carry the news of a famous Greek victory. With the morale boosting news that scientifically, the day of our race could be the actual anniversary date opposed to the traditional 11th September date. I had also failed to realise that Berlin was being run on the same day; this was the first one I had done exactly 12 months before to the day.

Although apprehensive, I was inspired by the previous evening so was up at 5.45am, as the Marathon started at 7am, an unearthly hour for me as I do all my training runs in the afternoon/evenings! Eleven thousand people would line up today, but most would do the half marathon. Just 2716 would be doing the full 42Kms Marathon. I had declared a target time of 3.15 when I entered so lined up near the front where the Mayor of Marathon having come over from Greece, would start the race. Bang, we were off, 3o seconds later I was over the start line, show time!

Another decision for doing this marathon was the fact this was considered a fast course as very flat. But the plan now was simple, to go at a comfortable pace which didn't feel stretched. Important not to over do it as most of the runners would be finishing after 21kms so mustn’t get dragged along. The course heads out of the city along the shores of Lake Ontario then double backs on itself. I didn't feel full of energy but was running in front of the 3 Hour 10 Minute Pacemaker and feeling ok! I could only conclude that the spirit of Pheidippides was running with me? Seeing the elite Kenyan runners coming back the other way brought a cheer from us that can only dream of such pace.

The sky was blue but being early cool enough and as the course came back into the city, the 8000 half marathoners peeled off, wimps! After 12 miles ran right past the doors of my 4* Hotel with a lovely comfy soft Queen size bed and bath, but the resolve was still strong so past it I went. I passed half way (13 miles) in 1 hour 33 minutes, a personal best and I wasn’t going for it aggressively. Dare I hope for a fast time, surely not? The course then heads out of the city to the old harbour area before coming back in, and at that point didn't feel too bad. But at the 16 mile mark, bang, it happened, a lesson in how you cannot skimp on training. It wasn't the wall as in falling asleep as in Barcelona or desperately wanting it to end in Berlin. More of I'm stuck in relative plod mode and there is nothing I could do about of it. I had plans for the week ahead and didn't want to render myself a physical wreck! Looking at the times, dropped from 7.15 minute miles to 9 minute miles.

The good thing about Toronto is everyone speaks English and as you have your name on the Bib, plenty of people shout out your name in encouragement. So along with doing high five's with the kids near the water stations and bands blazing out music every few miles, morale was ok. Seeing the Toronto sky line dominated with the CN tower getting ever nearer was really impressive. Sure enough the pace makers passed me one by one and a stream of experienced runners who had a better training experience than me! A slight difference to the other two marathons was I bought a packet of Energy gel sweets at the Expo and sucked on one every mile. Don't get me wrong, it was hard, the legs were really heavy and I really wanted the end to come, but at least I didn't feel like dying on the spot, think they must of made a difference? I tried to raise my pace in the last couple of miles but just couldn't.

Soon enough I was back in the city centre in the last mile towards the old city hall. I remember someone shouting "almost there, don't look at the ground, focus on something ahead".Time to dig deep, I couldn't go on much longer. The 5Km runners were now on a barriered off lane on my left and at last the finish line came into view. Could see the clock turning 3 Hours 37, so went over the line and punched the air (photo to come!) Better then Berlin with so little training, I'm not an old cronk after all?! had come 561 out of 2716 and if I had called it a day at the half marathon mark, would have come 281st out of 7893. Job done. Best of all the Gold finishers’ medal is the best one yet, pure bling, but then again what else would you expect from North America?

As ever, was back out exploring later on the day with stairs being a real challenge. However 48 hours later was walking normally again with the discovery that if you have a bath with water almost too hot to bathe in, it works wonders. Good job really as was intending to do some walks a few days later!

So there you go, I declare the 2010 season over, the legs can have a rest. Although yet again I didn't get into London (the end goal) so guess I will have to do a spring one? If I want to keep the dream alive...


Monday, 30 August 2010

Day 215 – Saturday 17 July 2010: Fleetwood to Glasson Dock: 13 miles walked today: 2398.5 miles walked in total

Finn and I have had to have a couple of days off – the rain has been horrendous and we’ve also suffered broken tent poles again. My tent is very small, plenty big enough for me and all my crap, but not quite big enough for me, all my crap and a vile smelling damp dog. Note to self: buy bigger tent if we’re going to do this again!

Finn and I have been gently steaming all day along the sea wall, along lanes and then through farmland, due to very changeable weather conditions – which ranged from driving rain to bright sunshine, with the odd bit of blusteryness thrown in for good measure.

We started at 9.30 am and soon found a display panel on the sea front telling us that, on a clear day, you could see Scafell Pike and the Old Man of Coniston ….. it wasn’t a clear day.

The first three miles or so were lovely – all on the sea wall to Pilling, where we had to detour inland due to unsafe marshes. The tide can come in pretty quickly along this stretch of coast.

We then had a horrid few miles on pretty busy lanes then before finally getting out to the sea wall via farmland. In the far distance, we’ve seen the huge ferries and container ships that cross the Irish Sea to far flung destinations.


The wind really blew as we got back to the sea wall and we were walking in some pretty tough conditions, so it really dragged and slowed our progress. As we got to Old Glasson, we had to detour again across farmland – very boggy farmland at that – and shared our path with sheep and cows. We didn’t hang about!


It was then just a short sprint into Glasson Dock to find our bus stop and we found a picnic bench to wait the thirty minutes or so for our bus. Luckily for us, entertainment was provided by the lock keepers who were letting a couple of large yachts out to sea, while a catamaran was making its way into the marina from the harbour. I started to get a bit frazzled as my bus was due any minute and they were about to close the road and swing the road bridge open. My bus eventually turned up so Finn and I had a two hundred metre dash across the lock gates and down the road to where the bus had detoured to. The driver really didn’t want to let us on but I was buggered if I was going to wait another two hours for the next one. There then followed a slight altercation with the bus driver who complained that I was taking too long to settle Finn, find my purse and pay the fare. I did point out that if he hadn’t been twenty minutes late, the road would still have been open and I wouldn’t have had to sprint for the bus, thereby causing me to lose my purse at the bottom of my rucksack. Luckily before he threw us off for causing a commotion, he managed to reverse into a minibus so then had an altercation with the driver instead – Finn and I slunk up to the back of the bus, me biting my lips trying not to laugh!

So, after a bus back to the car, Finn and I made it back to camp to find we’d driven our neighbours in the next caravan away after only one night. Must have been Finn’s snoring!

So, I guess the epilogue to this is that, we only managed two days walking in the week that we were away, but due to aforementioned tent pole breakage, torrential rain and disgusting dog, the decision was made to come home, a whole eleven weeks early! However, as I (finally) type this up, I still have another month off, so watch this space ….. there might be some good news about the walk soon.

Day 214 – Wednesday 14 July 2010: Blackpool Tower to Fleetwood: 10 miles walked today: 2385.5 miles walked in total

Well, this feels a bit odd ….. five years after walking eleven hundred miles in six months from Newquay in Cornwall to get as far as Blackpool Tower, the walk started up again – finally. A few differences this time – Dizzy, my trusty campervan, is gone, but I have a car and a tent. And I also have Finn, my bonkers dog to make things more interesting. I’m also unemployed and have a mortgage. Oh, and live in a completely different county, two hundred miles away! Amazing how life changes in just five years …..


When I found out that I was being made redundant, my first coherent thought after “oh f*ck!” was to start planning the next stage of the coastal walk. For the uninitiated, this started properly back in 1999, on my 33rd birthday to be precise! I started walking from Cley – my parents were living at Bacton on the north Norfolk coast at the time, so I could keep popping up for weekends and to walk that stretch. At the time, I lived in Portsmouth so I could also trek back and forwards along the south coast to do all the bits down there too. To begin with, the walk was undertaken on weekends and on annual holidays and this was how I clocked up the first thousand miles or so. The six month stint decision was taken after I’d had enough of my job – eight years for the same construction company – and Andy had just been sent to Iraq, supposedly for a four month post which turned into four years. Since 2005, I haven’t done a single step of the coastal walk – preferring to walk hills and mountains instead! However, with four months off – all sponsored by my soon to be ex-employer – the maps and guidebooks came out of the loft and many happy evenings were spent, plotting paths and campsites. Unlike the big national trails, the coast path itself doesn’t exist – it’s made up of footpaths, county-wide coastal paths, lanes through villages, along beaches, and sometimes along quite major roads, so takes quite a bit more planning than just heading to the library or Waterstones to get a guidebook.

So, with the whole summer before us (or so we thought at the time, more of that later), Finn and I set off for Blackpool and the next stage of the coastal journey.

The rain had been lashing off the tent all night so I turned off the alarm at six, not wanting to get wet. At seven, the rain had stopped so Finn and I were up and finally parked at Blackpool, ready to walk at nine thirty. When I walked into Blackpool on 9 September 2005, it was on a very grey and drizzly day. So it seemed fitting that on my way out of Blackpool today, it should be in the same conditions.

It’s been all prom walking today – but the prom is set back from the road and tram line and there’s plenty of greensward too, so Finn was off the lead pretty much all day. He’s made loads of doggy friends and they’ve all been chasing each other around the beach and on the sea wall and having a lovely time.

There’s lots of construction work going on along the front in Blackpool – with Heras fencing up everywhere and loads of workmen standing around in their PPE and we couldn’t get access to the beach for ages. Probably just as well – knowing how much Finn loves swimming, we might never have got to Fleetwood.

The weather’s been very overcast with grey clouds and even greyer sea. I had my coat on all day and didn’t really warm up until Fleetwood. We passed one resort after another – Bispham, Norbreck, Little Bispham before the bigger resort of Cleveleys which was much more genteel than her brasher neighbour. It’s been an assault of the senses today – cars, buses, trams, people, amusement arcades, flashing lights, the smell of doughnuts, etc. I was relieved to get back to the sea wall walking – much quieter.

So a short day, but a good start to the adventure. Just hope it warms up a bit!

Saturday, 3 July 2010

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 4 – Monday 28 June 2010 – Once Brewed to Bellingham – 15 miles

Andy was leaving us today to drive back to work, so he dropped us at Hadrians Wall – the plan was for Finn and I to walk from there back to the campsite, thereby saving more taxi fares and transport nightmares. So, we didn’t actually start walking until eleven thirty this morning – very late for us.

After half an hour’s walking, Andy rang to say he’d meet us for lunch at Stonehaugh – from my map I anticipated I’d get there within two hours, so then we set a cracking pace to make sure we DID get there. I was conscious that Andy needed to be at work tonight, and that he’d need a kip this afternoon at some point.

Not far from the wall, we met a Pennine Wayer who’s walking it the other way – from north to south. He’d been staying on our campsite last night and we had a little chat about where we might cross paths – because I started so late though, and he had started at seven this morning, it was very near the wall, my start point! He explained about a forest fire he’d seen on the way over – he’d contacted a colleague with vague directions and got him to ring the Forestry Commission people. He showed me on the map the location so I could direct the rescue people there if necessary. Blimey, responsibility? I’d forgotten what that was!

As I walked through the forest, I met the rescue people but they were totally in the wrong place according to the map I’d been shown. I redirected them from my map, but wouldn’t let them have the map as I still needed it! They made a note of the location and strode off down a different path to find their van and head back to the clearing where it was all happening. About twenty minutes later, I found the fire myself so waited until they came back with more water and hoses. Absolved of all responsibility – thank God! – Finn and I strode off, now running a bit late to meet Andy. We got to the pre-arranged meeting place but Andy, and the van, were nowhere to be seen. After sitting down for twenty minutes, I suddenly remembered that Andy used to get lost in Woolworths! So Finn and I made the decision to keep walking and, sure enough, Andy had parked in a completely different village altogether! We found this out when we spied him laying beside a ditch, waiting to leap out at us and surprise us! Bless him!

We had lunch overlooking a stream, and then started to head the few miles back towards the van. It then transpired that Andy had ‘phoned in sick to work for this evening, so would meet us back in Bellingham for a pint and dinner – lovely job! So Andy left us to drive back to the campsite and Finn and I had five miles still to go. Our reference point was the radio mast just above Bellingham village and we had it in our sights for the rest of the day.

As we came down into Bellingham, the weather turned and it started raining – but Andy had realised this while sitting outside the tent, so got in the van to come and meet us – luckily we were just the other side of the village – and we headed to the pub for a celebratory beer and dinner.

So, this is the end of this stretch of the Pennine Way – after doing a load of research on my weekend off, I realised I really can’t do the last stage – there is a twenty-five mile walk from Byrness to Kirk Yetholm. However, there are no roads crossing this twenty-five miles at all, so to split it into two, you have to walk off the track three miles to meet a road. Which takes the twenty-five miles to thirty-one miles – a seventeen miler and a fourteen miler. And the corresponding taxi fare tots up to a hundred quid. Andy has very kindly offered to be support crew on this last stint, but I’ve decided to do this next year instead. I now have a ten week coastal walk – hopefully five hundred miles – to concentrate on and I’ve spent too much energy and emotion on the Pennine Way for a little while!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 3 – Friday 25 June 2010 – Bellingham to Byrness – 15 miles

Finn and I were rudely awoken at five thirty by someone breaking into our tent – Andy! Andy had a weekend off work so had come to spend some time with us and help out with transport logistics, etc. So Finn and I would walk from the campsite to Byrness, while Andy slept – he’s currently working nights – and we’d get collected from the pub in Byrness at five o’clock.

We started out on farmland, but soon headed up over old quarries and mine workings, the spoil heaps now covered in grass. The guidebook said the way today was indistinct, but it was easy to see where previous Pennine Wayers had trodden down the heather and moss. And there were an awful lot of way posts to follow too.

There were other Pennine Wayers out – I walked with a couple of lads who are doing the way in sixteen days, but they were much too quick for me though so I soon let them carry on without me.

I also came across a support vehicle for four lads who are doing the way in seven days only – a minimum of thirty miles a day – madness! The support vehicle was manned by two guys who I chatted to for ages and, as they had so many supplies, they offered me top ups of whatever I needed – woohoo! I made a donation to the Help for Heroes fund, the charity the guys are walking for – they’re due to finish tomorrow, but have slowed down so much, walking less than two miles a day. And apparently their feet are a right mess! (I caught up with the crew at Byrness later –apparently the guys were having an energy spurt so were catching me up fast!)

The path from this point stayed within Kielder Forest – up to now, it had been really bleak and remote, but now I was expecting to walk through trees and finally get some shade. However, the Forestry Commission have been doing a spot of “harvesting”, so I ended up walking along tracks for miles, surrounded by tree stumps and log piles. No shade at all.

The Way eventually comes down to a picnic site, where Finn and I polished off our packed lunch, before Finn jumped in the river. God knows where he always gets this second wind from – he jumped out of the water and tore up and down the path like a lunatic before jumping in for another swim. This pretty much set the routine for the last couple of miles as the path follows the River Rede into Byrness. I was exhausted just watching him!

Disappointment struck at Byrness – the pub is no longer there and we had ninety minutes to kill before Andy picked us up. Luckily, Andy rang so I told him we’d finished and he immediately hot-footed (hot-pedalled?) to meet us and take us to the Redesdale Arms for a couple of pints.

A fantastic day, but my sunburn is a wonder to behold!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 2 – Thursday 24 June 2010 – Knarsdale to Haltwhistle – 8 miles

Today’s transport shenanigans were solved by the manager lady at the campsite last night – and I’m ashamed to admit it was a nazi-run site too L My route today should have been Knarsdale to Greenhead. But she pointed out that I could get a bus to Knarsdale from Haltwhistle so I got the maps out and worked out whether I could walk to Haltwhistle instead of Greenhead, but didn’t really fancy a stroll along the A69 Carlisle to Newcastle road. I did, however, work out that it would be much cheaper to get the bus up to Knarsdale, walk to Greenhead and then get a taxi from there to Haltwhistle rather than a taxi all the way from Greenhead back to Knarsdale to the car. The logistics of this walking malarkey are far from easy. (Not to mention taxi fares – I got stung for FORTY-EIGHT QUID on Tuesday from Garrigill to Dufton – outrageous.)

So, at nine forty-five this morning, Finn and I were walking, but NOT along the Pennine Way! From my map, I could see that the South Tyne Way runs parallel to the Pennine Way and takes in lots of bridges, old disused railway stations and platforms, AND a viaduct. Need I say more? So, instead of fields and farmland, we had a fantastic day following the route of the railway from Knarsdale to Lambley Viaduct, where the path splits into lots of different paths, but stays true to one railway line or another. (I even had a thought, because we had such a brilliant walk, that the Government should close a few more railway lines and turn them into paths too. I may very well write a letter to David Cameron. I may even ask if he needs a PA?)

We had finished at twelve thirty today – how lovely! – so then went off to find our new campsite where we are staying for five nights – I’m going to walk out of sequence again, now I know that I won’t be struck down for this deviation from the plan, and have a couple of days off too this weekend – necessitated by England playing an afternoon game on Sunday, rather than an evening game on Saturday. The boys have earned me another day off!

Finn and Susan’s big adventure – Day 1 – Tuesday 22 June 2010 – Dufton to Garrigill – 16 miles

This is the walk that was abandoned in May due to mist. But today has been a scorcher and the views have been amazing. The walk itself is very remote and bleak and I’d hate to do it in bad weather. My guidebook referred to an article in The Gentleman’s Magazine of 1747 regarding Cross Fell, the highest point of the Pennines, saying it is “generally ten months buried in snow and eleven months in clouds”. Today, there was definitely no white stuff and the clouds were just fleeting.

I’ve had four big hills today – Knock Fell; Great Dun Fell; Little Dun Fell (which is not little at all and needs to be renamed); and Cross Fell. Knock Fell was definitely the worst to get up – I actually thought we were at the summit an hour before we really were.

We met eight or nine walkers today, all very chatty and all making a fuss of Finn, who has been off the lead nearly all day. Until about three miles from the end when a Neanderthal farmer yelled at us over two fields with an awful lot of gesturing and grunting, to put Finn on a lead. Now, there were no sheep in this field for a start, and Finn was laying down knackered, so I’m not sure this abuse was fair. I realise there are a lot of dog owners who probably don’t respect the land they’re walking over, or the landowners. But I imagine these type of dog owners probably aren’t walking the Pennine Way. The farmer has obviously had a bad day. I hope it gets worse.

I had a nose around the first bothy I’ve ever encountered – Greg’s hut – an emergency shelter with very basic accommodation, ie, the floor! There was a stove and a pile of wood piled up outside. And there was tea, coffee and a kettle. No electric, running water, or sewage – but there was a very thoughtfully provided spade …! I imagine the hut is a godsend if you’re stuck up on those fells and the mist comes down.

So, a very good day – quite a tough sixteen miles, but we’ve a day off tomorrow to find a pub to watch England play in the World Cup.

(Post script: Finn and I watched the game in the Wallace Arms near Haltwhistle – with a dozen or so Geordies in the pub’s back room. Finn had not been made welcome by Shandy, the pub’s lurcher, but when he refused to fight with her or respond to her barking, she took herself off somewhere else. Finn just shrugged his shoulders and slept on her bed for the duration of the game – he has no shame!

While in the pub, I met the young lad I’d last seen at Garrigill who I assumed was walking the Pennine Way. Wrongly, actually as he’s walking Lands End to John O’Groats on his gap year before university. He’s also planning the walk around England games at the moment!)